The Squat

Geeklawyer’s temporary chambers

The Radnorshire Arms, Beguildy

The first thing to say is that this is the pub in Beguildy not the better known Radnorshire Arms Hotel in Presteigne. If you Google “Radnorshire Arms Beguildy” Google will misdirect you to The Radnorshire Arms Presteigne. Here is a link to a Bing map of the right location.

Beguildy hovers on the ancient border between England and Wales, and before the pointless reorganisation of local counties it was in the Welsh county of Radnorshire. The pub is, well, a pub – a nice old country pub with no airs and graces. The food was a cut above normal pub fare as the owners are, it turns out, foodies. GL will not pretend that this is a coincidental: he won’t review any old pub even in the Ludlow/Borders area where gourmet pubs are so frequent one runs the risk of finding a Michelin star in ones’ tyre if parking badly in the pub car park.

The She Demon Of The Marriage Bed had the soup of the day and GL had a ham hock terrine but was so engrossed in the terrine that he forgot to try her soup. Top reviewing points GL! However, the Terrine was firmly compressed & delicious, without the masses of jelly that seems to be obligatory when it’s served elsewhere: GL likes his jelly with ice cream rather than meat.

The She Demon Of The Marriage Bed had Duck with braised Red Cabbage and Mash. Duck is a very under appreciated meat thinks GL, perhaps its sin is to be associated too closely to Beatrix Potter? No, that’s stupid. GL had a forkful and it was well cooked and tender. Red cabbage is a brave choice in GL’s opinion: it’s one of those things we think we ought to like because it is healthy and can brag about eating to make one’s friends feel morally inferior. Braising didn’t make much difference – it was eaten to please mummy & was perfectly good, as was the cake of mashed potato.

GL had grilled Sea Bass with King Prawns and veg. It was lovely. Flakes of fish with that delicate fragrance crumbliness that always says: “Sweaty Spanish peasant fisherman invading British Coastal water” but which tastes fine nonetheless. GL rather likes king prawns and very good they were but it’s not clear what exactly they added to the dish other than being another bit of fishy something. Sometimes less is more. Sometimes more is more. Lovely anyway. Vegetables crunchy and not boiled into to minerallessness. Chips ara GL obsession. He gets rubbish chips in so many top restaurants that he thinks it may be a secret chef in-joke. Chips here fall into the ‘competent but don’t get cocky‘ class: just not chunky – which is the hallmark of perfection, shut up yes it is.

The GLs finished off with Eton mess. Short of putting a turd on top it’s hard to see how anyone can make Eton Mess taste bad. The turd was missing and my only criticism is that it was in small glasses. GL wanted MOAR!

The service was prompt pleasant and polite, albeit the pretty young girl serving us seemed to have a memory worse than mine, a fate GL wouldn’t even wish on Nigel Farage. We wandered out into the snowy Radnorshire night much fatter.

January 18, 2015 - Posted by | food | , ,

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